I can’t pinpoint the exact moment my work went from static to dramatic, but it all came down to understanding color temperature and implementing temperature shifting within a consistent value throughout my paintings. As it all clicked, I also started mixing my paint differently, and it made color mixing issues a thing of the past as I discovered matching color is not the goal. Primarily one just needs to think in terms of value and temperature. Sure, hue plays a role, but nothing more than saying I need it red, green, violet, etc.
Color temperature can be difficult to understand and convoluted when you first dive into it. However, it is worth pursuing at any stage of your endeavors. To review color temperature, globally on the color wheel yellow, orange and red are considered warm, while greens, blues and violets are considered cool. Specifically, though, each color has warm and cool varieties depending on the pigment used.
I also want to preface with two other thoughts:
1. Temperature is solely a man-made construct, much like the names that we give colors. However, thinking in temperature aids significantly in improving your painting outcome and in understanding how to see and mix colors.
2. Temperature only comes into play when comparing one mix to another. Thinking in temperature is liberating as it removes the desire to match a color exactly, which I believe is the primary reason artists have such a hard time mixing what they want.
Once you understand the nuances, it changes everything. A color is no longer a blueish green, a yellow white or a reddish violet, they become a cool green, a warm white and a warm violet. Why does that matter? Because one no longer has to worry about matching the color exactly. Just establish the general hue, match the value, then mix it warmer or cooler as required. It’s that easy.
There is a guiding principle in representational painting that states “warm light, cool shadows” and “cool light, warm shadows.” In other words, if your scene/object is lit with warm light, the cast and form shadows will be cool and vice versa. This is a very simplified statement as there can be other factors that influence light and shadow areas, such as reflective light or a secondary light source.

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C
Knowing this principle, we can say there are two main areas of a painting, the light and the shadow, with each opposite of each other in temperature.This brings me to the main discussion of this article, the shifting of color temperature within these two broad areas of light and shadow. Some call it color bending, others color shifting, but I find both of those misleading. One should think more in terms of the temperature and the pigment used to shift it. Do I warm a mix with warm or cool red, yellow or orange? Do I cool a color with a warm or cool blue, green or violet? Each has a different use depending on your final goal and each choice is dependent on the pigment used. For example, a red will warm but dull the chroma of a green mixture, whereas a yellow will warm and enhance the chroma of a green mixture. Getting into more detail, a cool yellow will help enhance the chroma and a green mix more than a warm yellow; however both will warm the mixture from its original state.
In the color swatches (Figures A, B and C) you can see how your choice of pigment can affect the chroma of a mix. In each swatch, all the mixes are intended to be the same value. You can tell when two mixes are the same value by squinting—if the edges of the two mixes blend together, their values are the same.
In Figure A the central swatches of green are a mix of viridian green, hansa yellow medium and white. The top bar has this mix warmed with hansa yellow medium, left of the central swatch, and cooled with cerulean blue, right of the central swatch. Notice how the chroma of the colors is kept relatively high. In the bottom bar the mix was warmed with cadmium red medium and cooled with ultramarine blue. On the cooler side, the chroma reduction had a minimal shift using the ultramarine blue. On the warm side, you can see the chroma was entirely killed as we added more and more cadmium red medium.
In Figure B we see this happen as well. This time the main central swatches of violet were made with ultramarine blue and alizarin crimson permanent. The top row was warmed with hansa yellow medium and cooled with cerulean blue. The bottom row was warmed with alizarin crimson permanent and cooled with ultramarine blue. While the cerulean blue didn’t change the chroma of the mix a lot, the hansa yellow medium certainly killed it to a more neutral mix.
Lastly, Figure C represents a more practical skin tone mix. The base color is mixed with yellow ochre, cad red medium, ultramarine blue, transparent red oxide and white. The top row was warmed with hansa yellow medium and cooled with ultramarine blue while the bottom row was warmed with cad red medium and cooled with viridian green. Notice the distinct difference between the warm and cool mixes between the two rows. Simply by choosing the correct pigment to warm and cool a mix, an artist can also choose how chromatic or dull the final mix will be.
As an artist, why would you want or need to shift color temperature in an area of a painting? For one, it mimics what nature already does and helps create that sense of reality by providing information without a lot of detail. Secondly, it can provide a sense of detail where there is none. For example, add depth to a distant tree line, enhance the sparkle in a body of water or bring life to shadows.
Some might be asking, “How can you shift temperature in a cool area without making it warm?” and vice versa. This is where it can be confusing. Shifting a cool mix to be warmer does not make the color mix as warm as what is in the lights. The new mix is just warmer than what you had before. On the reverse end, a warm mix shifting to cool is just cooler than your previous mix, but not cooler than the shadows. Color temperature is 100 percent relative through constant comparison.
Keep in mind that you are also trying to keep the mixtures as close to the same value as possible. If you are trying to cool a light value mixture with an ultramarine blue, it will also darken the value, so you’ll need to to add white to lighten it again.
The best way to really understand the visual appeal of shifting color temperature within the same or close value is with actual examples. I could show images of the masters and their work, but I want to show you this skill is not limited to the masters. There are thousands of artists currently out there that do this to achieve great results. The examples throughout are of my own work and by artists that are close friends of mine that I frequently paint with. This is another tip, always paint with someone better than you.




